Watering

When growing philodendron plants, allow the top inch (2.5 cm.) of soil to dry out between waterings. The length of your index finger to the first knuckle is about an inch (2.5 cm.), so inserting your finger into the soil is a good way to check the moisture level. Droopy leaves can mean that the plant is getting too much or not enough water. But the leaves recover quickly when you correct the watering issues.

Soil

These plants prefer well-draining, consistently moist but not waterlogged soil. When the soil is too wet, the roots may have difficulty absorbing nutrients and oxygen and harmful bacteria and fungi can take hold more easily.

Philodendrons prefer a pH level of 5.0-6.0, which is slightly acidic.

A combination of one part regular potting soil, one part peat moss, and one part perlite will make for the perfect slightly acidic, well-draining growing medium.

Light

Set the plant in a location with bright, indirect sunlight. Find a position near a window where the sun’s rays rarely touch the foliage. While it’s normal for older leaves to yellow, if this happens to several leaves at the same time, the plant may be getting too much light. On the other hand, if the stems are long and leggy with several inches between leaves, the plant probably isn’t getting enough light.

Humidity

As tropical plants, philodendrons prefer temperatures between 70 and 85°F.

They do not tolerate nighttime temperatures less than 55°F well, though they may survive short periods with temperatures as low as 36°F. They prefer 60-70 percent humidity

Watering

Proper watering is key to Anthurium care. Keep the soil lightly moist during the growing season (March-September), letting the top layer just approach dryness between waterings. Make a habit of checking on it at least once or twice a week by gently digging a finger into the soil. It should feel barely moist. If it still feels wet, wait a bit longer.

Light

To thrive in our homes, anthuriums need medium to bright indirect light, although they’ll accept less during their dormant period in winter. They are sensitive to direct light and burn easily, so take care to protect from hot afternoon sunbeams.

Humidity and Temperature

Proper Anthurium care means keeping a watchful eye in winter and protecting your plants from drafty doors and windows. They will suffer or even die below 55 degrees and are happiest between 65-70. It’s also important to protect your Anthurium from forced air. Heaters, fans, and air conditioners can damage plants if they are too close, but gentle air circulation (such as an open window on a warm, humid day) will benefit them.

Humidity is definitely a factor to consider before bringing home an Anthurium, and very important to Anthurium care. The foliage varieties especially require high humidity to thrive and will suffer without it, often getting brown edges. Consider keeping your Anthurium in a well-lit bathroom or Cabinet. If that’s not practical, you can run a humidifier near your Anthurium, mist it periodically, or use a simple pebble tray under its pot.

Soil

With careful watering, some hybrids can be grown successfully in potting soil by treating them similarly to philodendrons, letting the soil dry out a bit between waterings. However, because Anthuriums
grow in the moss and leaf litter of tree branches in their native environments, they prefer something more akin to an orchid mix. This is usually a loose, breathable mix of potting soil, peat moss, bark pieces and/or mulch, charcoal, gravel, perlite or pumice, and sphagnum moss. Using this type of soil mix will make Anthurium care a bit more manageable.

Flowering

Many Anthuriums are grown for their flowers, which come in many colors. What we call the flower is actually many very tiny flowers growing along the spadix (the thin, finger-like center) while the heart shaped outer “petal” is really a modified leaf called the spathe. These “flowers” are some of the longest lasting on earth, which means that lustrous color can last in your home for months. Getting your Anthurium to re-bloom is doable, although it requires some patience and care. They will require bright filtered light (lower light will hinder plants from blooming), consistent but careful watering, and regular fertilizing. Gently clip spent flowers so your plant can use its energy on new growth.

Watering

Be sure to water your Hoya thoroughly, so the entire soil becomes wet. They like to dry out more than most plants, so only water them again once the soil is thoroughly dry. If they do not dry out between watering's, they will rot quite easily.

Soil

Hoyas will appreciate a lightweight and very airy potting mix. A mixture of substrate, perlite and bark will work great for most Hoyas. Epiphytic Hoyas in particular will also do well in sphagnum moss.

Hoyas can also be grown in semi-hydro substrates, such as Leca or PON.

Light

The more succulent varieties with fleshy leaves, such as Hoya Kerii or Hoya Calistophylla can withstand full sun, so they will do great in a South-facing window or right under a small grow light. Meanwhile, thinner-leaved Hoyas, such as Hoya Bella or Hoya Krohniana, will appreciate medium to bright indirect light.

Certain Hoya varieties might begin to loose their leaves due to sun stress, such as Hoya Wayetii Tricolor. This can be beautiful, but you have to be careful not to overdo it light-wise or it will fully burn the plant and permanently damage the chlorophyll in the leaves in the process.

Humidity

Most Hoyas will do great in moderate humidity of 40-60%. Especially the more thick-leaved Hoya are not too finicky in terms of humidity, but most will thrive and grow faster if given a bit more.

Some of the thinner-leaved varieties might require higher humidity of 60-80% to thrive. They will do especially well in a greenhouse or terrarium environment.

Repotting

Hoyas like to be rootbound, so we recommend that you do not repot your Hoya too often. Refreshing their soil every two to three years in order to give them better, nutrient-retaining soil is enough. If they are very rootbound, you can give them a bigger pot when you refresh the substrate.

Flowering

Hoyas won’t flower unless it is given the right care and conditions. Light is the most important factor in getting your Hoya to bloom. It will need a location with bright, indirect light, sheltered from direct sun rays. Fertilizing your Hoya regularly may encourage the plant to produce flower buds as well.

Toxicity

Hoyas are not toxic to humans or animals when ingested.

Watering

Water alocasia
when the top few of inches of the soil are dry. Alocasias have medium water requirements. Even consistent moisture is ideal. Alocasia likes to partially dry out between waterings, but they do not like to be soppy wet. Hold back on watering as often during the colder months if the plant is not actively growing.

Light

Alocasias are adaptable and can handle a range of light from low to bright indirect. The amount of light the plant receives will dictate how quickly it grows. If you want your plant to push out new leaves actively and produce the large leaves it is known for, then make sure the alocasia is in a spot where it can receive plenty of bright indirect light. The plant will survive but not grow as quickly when placed in an area with lower light levels. If you bring your alocasia outdoors in the warmer months, place it in a spot that receives partial hade. Direct sunlight will burn the leaves.

Humidity and Temperature

Alocasia houseplants thrive in a high humidity environment. If you live in a drier climate or just don't have an area with enough humidity, then consider using a humidifier or a pebble tray with water.

As a subtropical plant, alocasia love warmer temperatures that are more in line with their native environment. Average room temperatures above 60°F are perfect If you place your alocasia on a patio or outdoor area during the warmer months, then make sure to bring it back inside when temps drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit.  Keep in mind, alocasia will go dormant in the colder months. Although they may not loose all of their leaves, they will stop growing, and should be kept in slightly lower temperatures so they can enjoy their down-time.

Soil

Alocasia like loose, nutrient-rich potting soil. Use a soil that can retain moisture but also allows for drainage of excess water to avoid root rot. Most pre-mixed soils will suffice. Make sure that there is plenty of organic matter, like coco-coir or peat moss and avoid soils that contain moisture retaining crystals. If your soil drains too quickly or straight through, I recommend re-potting your alocasia.

Toxicity

All alocasias are toxic to pets.